Motorcycle Helmet Sizing Australia | Cert Guide | Shark Leathers

A new lid you can't take off after 20 minutes is a lid you'll stop wearing. A cheap lid that fails AS/NZS 1698 is a fine waiting to happen. This guide solves both.

Everything else protects your body. Your helmet protects your brain. That's the only piece of gear where "near enough" isn't good enough.

We've been fitting helmets out of Helensvale for two decades. The single most common mistake we see is people guessing their size from a hat number, then living with a lid that drops half a size after the foam compresses. The second most common mistake is buying a Euro-only helmet thinking it's legal here.

Both are fixable in five minutes. Here's how.

How to measure your head for a motorcycle helmet

You need a soft tape measure. The cloth kind a tailor uses, not the steel one in your toolbox. If you don't have one, a piece of string and a ruler will do.

1. Wrap the tape around your head about 2cm above your eyebrows, going around the widest part at the back. Most people's widest point is roughly an inch above the ears, slightly above where a cap brim would sit.
2. Pull it firm but not crushing. Same tension you'd run a watch strap.
3. Read the cm value. Write it down to the nearest half cm.

That number is your head circumference. It's the only spec that matters for getting the right size. Your hat size doesn't translate, and "I'm a medium" doesn't either. Every brand sizes slightly differently.

Common adult head circumferences:

That's the general guide. Each brand has its own chart, and we cross-reference yours against the specific helmet's chart before we ship it. If you're sitting right on a boundary (say 56.5cm), go up a size. The foam will compact 2-3mm after the first 10-20 hours of wear. A perfect fit from new becomes loose after a month.

What the fit should feel like (in the shop or on day one)

A correctly sized helmet feels firm. Not painful. The cheek pads should press your cheeks just enough that talking is slightly muffled. The brow band should sit flush against your forehead without leaving a red mark longer than 60 seconds after you take it off.

Some checks to run:

• Shake test. Shake your head side to side, then nod up and down. The helmet should move WITH your head, not slide independently. If the lid rotates more than 10-15 degrees on a hard shake, it's too big.
• Two-finger gap. Try to fit two fingers between your forehead and the brow band. If you can fit two fingers comfortably, the helmet is too loose. One finger snug = correct.
• Cheek pad bite. Press the cheek pads with your palms. If they spring back hard, that's good. If they barely touch your cheeks, that's a fitment issue. Pads break in and loosen by ~30% after the first month, so new should feel almost too tight.
• Strap and chin bar test. Tighten the chin strap. Now try to roll the helmet forward off your head from the back. A properly fitted helmet will not come off. If it does, you've bought a helmet too big and the strap is the only thing holding it on.

Stick your tongue between your teeth and bite gently. If the helmet pinches your tongue against your teeth, the cheek pads are too tight (rare on new helmets, common on track-spec lids).

The Australian certifications that actually matter

Australia has two helmet legal pathways. Both are valid. Both let you ride legally on AU roads. This is where most online forum advice gets it wrong.

AS/NZS 1698:2006

The Australian and New Zealand standard. Until 2015 this was the only legal cert. Helmets carrying it have been tested against AS/NZS-specific impact protocols (drop tests on flat and hemispherical anvils, penetration tests, retention tests).

Look for the AS/NZS 1698 sticker on the back of the helmet (not just inside the box). The number is your road legal proof in every state and territory. Most helmets sold in AU still carry this.

ECE 22.06 (and the older ECE 22.05)

The European Economic Commission standard, accepted as equivalent to AS/NZS for road use since 2015 (with state-level variation in how strictly the sticker check is enforced).

ECE 22.06 is the current spec, mandatory for new homologations from 2024 onward. It tests:

• Linear impact at multiple speeds (was just one speed under 22.05)
• Oblique impact (the angled hits that cause rotational brain injury, the most common real-world crash mechanism)
• Visor optical quality and impact resistance
• Internal sun visor systems if fitted
• Bluetooth intercom integration tested as a unit, not bolted on after

ECE 22.05 is the legacy spec. Still legal but being phased out. Helmets built to 22.06 are demonstrably better at handling the rotational-impact crash modes that cause concussions and worse.

DOT (US Department of Transport)

Self-certified by the manufacturer with random spot-checks by US authorities. Not accepted as standalone proof in Australia. A DOT-only sticker means the helmet is built to US road specs, which are weaker than AS/NZS or ECE. Most premium helmets carry DOT plus ECE plus AS/NZS, which is fine. DOT alone is not.

Snell (US, voluntary)

A privately run cert from the Snell Memorial Foundation. Tougher tests than DOT, slightly different priorities than ECE (Snell biases toward harder shells and higher-energy single impacts, which can transfer more force to the brain on lower-speed hits, hence the long-running argument between Snell and ECE camps). Not legal on its own in AU. Often added to track-specific lids.

FIM (motorcycle racing)

The Fédération Internationale de Motocyclisme cert. Only matters if you race. The Shark Leathers race suits and a small handful of our helmets carry FIM approval for circuit use. Doesn't replace AS/NZS for road legality.

What you actually need

For everyday road riding in Australia:

• AS/NZS 1698 sticker on the helmet (back exterior, not just packaging). Required by police roadside check.
• OR ECE 22.05/22.06 sticker. Accepted as equivalent under your state's road rules.

If both are present (which most premium imports now carry), you're covered everywhere.

If you ride a track day, check your circuit's tech regs. Most accept ECE 22.06 or AS/NZS. A few high-spec days require FIM.

If you ride off-road in a private property, none of the road specs apply. Use what protects you.

Helmet types and when to choose each

You'll see five main types. Pick by how you actually ride, not by what looks cool in the photo.

Full face

The standard sport, sport-touring, commuter and track lid. Full lower jaw bar, fixed chin, integrated visor.

Why this is the safest road option: the chin and lower face take a huge portion of motorcycle impacts. Stats from European hospital data put chin impacts at around 35% of all helmet contact points in real-world crashes. Open face and 3/4 helmets leave that exposed.

Best for: anyone who rides at road speed, anyone who commutes year-round, anyone whose comfort priority is wind noise reduction.

Trade-off: hotter in summer, more claustrophobic for new riders, requires you to flip the visor for petrol stops and conversations.

Browse full face helmets.

Modular (flip-up)

Full face protection with a chin bar that lifts. P/J rated when locked closed (passes both P-class full face impact and J-class jet impact tests), J-only when flipped open.

Best for: tourers, glasses wearers, riders who hate fiddling at petrol stations or with intercoms, ADV riders who want a road lid that can vent at slow speeds.

Trade-off: typically 200-400 grams heavier than a comparable full face, slightly more wind noise around the chin bar pivot, and you must ride with it locked closed at speed.

Browse modular helmets.

Open face (3/4 or jet)

No chin bar. Often fitted with a flip-down visor or bubble shield, sometimes a peak.

Best for: cruiser riders at urban speeds, scooter commuters, classic bike enthusiasts who want a period-correct look.

Trade-off: the chin and lower face are unprotected. A 60km/h slide on hot bitumen will grind through your jaw. The safety case is hard to defend if you ride faster than 80km/h regularly.

Browse open face helmets.

Adventure (ADV)

Long visor, integrated drop-down sun visor, peak that can usually be removed for highway use. Designed for riders who do mixed road and gravel.

Best for: ADV riders, dual-sport commuters, anyone doing multi-day touring with goggle options for off-road sections.

Trade-off: the peak catches wind at highway speed (most decent ADV lids let you take it off for sealed-road touring), and they're typically heavier than a sport full face.

Browse adventure helmets.

Motocross (MX)

Aggressive chin bar, peak, no visor. Designed to be paired with goggles. No drop-down sun visor.

Best for: dedicated dirt and MX riders.

Trade-off: the venting is built for closed-course speed (20-60km/h), so at highway it's noisy and cold. You also can't run a face shield, so on-road use means wearing goggles permanently.

Browse dirt and MX helmets.

Shell materials: polycarbonate vs composite vs carbon fibre

This is where you decide how much you want to pay and how much weight you want to carry.

Polycarbonate (injected thermoplastic)

The entry-level shell material. Used on most $150-$300 helmets including RXT and Nitro ranges. Tough, cheap to produce, slightly heavier than composites.

Real talk: a well-made poly helmet that's AS/NZS-certified gives you 90% of the impact protection of a $1,000 carbon lid. The performance difference is real but not as dramatic as the price difference suggests. The actual upgrade you're paying for is weight and acoustic damping, not impact rating.

Typical weight: 1,500-1,700g.

Fibreglass composite (and tri-composite, multi-layer composites)

A mix of fibreglass, sometimes aramid (Kevlar), sometimes other reinforcement layers. Used in most mid-tier lids ($350-$700). LS2 FF800 Storm II, LS2 FF811 Vector II, AGV AX9, Airoh Connor sit here.

Stiffer shell than poly, slightly lighter, better at distributing impact across the shell rather than localising it. Typical weight: 1,350-1,500g.

Carbon fibre

The premium material. Best stiffness-to-weight ratio available, lightest helmets on the market.

Compare the Bell Race Star DLX Carbon ($1,300) to a comparable composite-shell helmet. The carbon version saves around 250-300 grams. Over a six-hour ride, that's a noticeable reduction in neck fatigue. Over a high-speed lean, that's less rotational mass for your neck to manage in a fall.

Typical weight: 1,150-1,350g. Typical price: 2-4× the composite equivalent.

Carbon is worth it if:

• You ride more than 200km in a day regularly (neck fatigue matters)
• You race (every gram helps in 5G corners)
• You can afford it without skimping on the rest of your kit

Browse carbon fibre helmets.

How long does a motorcycle helmet last?

Three answers, depending on what kills it.

Time

Manufacturers quote 5-7 years from the production date. The EPS foam (the white expanded-polystyrene liner doing the actual impact absorption) hardens and shrinks slightly over time, even unused. The bonding adhesives degrade. The shell itself is fine, but the energy-management system inside it isn't.

Check the production date sticker inside your helmet. It's usually under the cheek pad on the right side, sometimes printed on a paper tag under the comfort liner. Format varies by brand but you'll see a year and a week number, or year and month.

Replace at 5 years from production unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise.

Damage

Any impact that compressed the EPS, even if the shell looks fine, retires the helmet. Single-use is the design assumption. If you've crashed in it, even at low speed, replace it.

Don't be talked into "just buffing the shell" by a mate. The point of the EPS is one-shot crush absorption. After a crush event, the absorption capacity at that point is reduced to near zero.

Wear

Cheek pad and comfort liner foam compresses. After about 18-24 months of regular use, the helmet you bought to fit snug at 57cm will fit a loose 58. You can replace pads on most premium helmets (LS2, Bell, AGV all sell replacement liners). You can't replace EPS.

If your helmet is over 3 years old and starting to feel loose, replace the cheek pads first. If it's over 5 years, replace the whole lid.

Australian road law specifics

Each state has slightly different enforcement, but the underlying rule is consistent. Your helmet must:

• Carry a valid AS/NZS 1698 sticker (or be otherwise approved under your state's road rules)
• Be properly fastened (chin strap done up, not just sitting on your head)
• Be undamaged

Fines for non-compliant helmets range from $300 to $1,200 across the states, plus typically 3 demerit points.

Important nuance: a helmet built to ECE 22.05 or 22.06 may legally be worn in most states, but enforcement depends on the police officer seeing an AS/NZS sticker on the shell. If they don't see one and don't recognise ECE as equivalent, you're getting the ticket and arguing it in court. We recommend riders keep a printed copy of their state's transport regulations specifying ECE equivalence in their tank bag if they ride a strictly Euro-only helmet.

Easier path: buy a helmet that carries both stickers. Most premium imports sold at Shark do.

Bluetooth intercom compatibility

If you've already bought your intercom (or you're planning to), check the helmet's chin-pocket and speaker cutouts before buying.

Most modern road helmets have:

• Recessed speaker pockets (so the speakers don't press into your ears)
• A small clip mount on the side of the shell for the intercom module
• Pass-through for the boom mic on the chin bar

Cheaper helmets often have flat, shallow pockets that leave the speakers pressing your ear within 30 minutes. Premium helmets like the LS2 FF811 Vector II Carbon, LS2 FF901 Advant X, AGV AX9 and Bell Race Star DLX Carbon have deep recessed pockets and clean side-mount points.

If you're running an Interphone or SCS, our SCS S11 helmet intercom is the cleanest pre-integrated option we stock. The AGV Insyde Communication System ($600) integrates natively into AGV helmets, and the LS2 Linkin RidePal 3 by Sena ($350) does the same for LS2 helmets.

Frequently asked questions

What size motorcycle helmet do I need? Measure your head circumference 2cm above your eyebrows around the widest part of the back of your skull. Match the cm value to the manufacturer's size chart for the specific helmet. Most adults fall between 55-62cm. Go up a size if you're on a boundary, because cheek pad foam compacts 2-3mm in the first month.

Are ECE 22.06 helmets legal in Australia? Yes, in every state and territory that recognises ECE as equivalent to AS/NZS 1698, which is now all of them under the Australian Road Rules. However, roadside enforcement still varies. We recommend riders carrying an ECE-only helmet keep state-specific equivalence documentation in their tank bag, or buy a helmet carrying both certs.

Is a more expensive helmet safer? Not dramatically. A $300 AS/NZS-certified polycarbonate helmet passes the same impact tests as a $1,500 carbon fibre helmet. What you pay extra for is weight reduction, acoustic damping, ventilation, optical clarity of the visor, and longevity. A carbon lid that saves 300g across a 6-hour ride is a real comfort upgrade, not a safety upgrade.

How often should I replace my motorcycle helmet? Every 5 years from the manufacture date stamped inside the lid, or immediately after any crash impact, whichever comes first. Cheek pad and liner replacements can extend comfort life to 7+ years on premium helmets, but the EPS foam ages regardless.

Modular or full face for commuting? Modular if you stop frequently, wear glasses, or run an intercom. Full face if your priority is the lightest possible weight and the quietest helmet at 100km/h. Modulars are 200-400g heavier than equivalent full faces, but the daily convenience for petrol stops and conversations is real.

Can I buy a motorcycle helmet from overseas? You can buy one, but you can't legally wear it on AU roads unless it carries an AS/NZS 1698 sticker or is ECE-certified (and recognised by your state). Some US-only DOT helmets are not legal here. Always check for both stickers before importing.

What's the difference between ECE 22.05 and 22.06? ECE 22.06 adds tests that 22.05 didn't have: oblique angle impacts (closer to real-world crash mechanics), visor impact, and integration testing for sun visors and intercoms. A 22.06 helmet has been tested against more failure modes than a 22.05 helmet. Both are legal road specs in AU, but 22.06 is the current and recommended cert for new buyers.

The verdict

Buy a helmet that:

1. Carries a valid AS/NZS 1698 sticker on the shell (not just in the box)
2. Fits firm enough that the cheek pads bite your cheeks and the brow band doesn't gap
3. Costs whatever you can pay AFTER prioritising the cert and the fit

Don't buy a helmet to look cool. Don't buy a helmet because a YouTuber endorsed it. Don't buy a helmet a half-size too big because "it'll break in". Don't skip the dual cert if you might ever need both AS/NZS and ECE-compliant evidence.

If you're commuting and stopping often, modular. If you're touring across NSW or QLD, premium full-face with intercom integration. If you're going off-road, ADV or MX with goggle compatibility. If you're racing, FIM-spec.

We've fitted thousands of riders out of the Helensvale shop. The two questions we ask first are still the same as 20 years ago: what's your head circumference, and where do you ride? Get those answers right and the rest follows.

Shop our helmet range here or come in for a fit if you're on the Gold Coast.

Helmet deep-dives by type

We've written detailed posts on specific helmet types. Read the one that matches your riding:

• What are the features of a full face motorcycle helmet
• The pros and cons of a modular helmet
• Modular helmet vs full face: similarities, differences, pros and cons
• An expert review of the 8 best modular helmets in Australia
• The pros and cons of an open face helmet
• Is it safe to use a half face helmet